Time to head back to the planned route. Shanghai has two airports, I somehow managed to book a ticket from the one I had not used yet. Getting there was quite easy with the metro, except that the line I had to take, split just before the airport and so I had to get off and change train. I tried to ask a Chinese couple on the platform, they looked at me and just walked away.
In Shanghai airport I spent 30 minutes checking in, there seemed to be a big problem since I did not have a return ticket. But they were very willing to sell me one, oh yeah, I was not going to buy any ticket. At the end, they gave me a piece of paper which I had to sign, that all expenses, in case I was denied access to Cambodia, would fall onto me. Why would Cambodia not want me to visit them, me? I signed and got my boarding pass.

First stop was Guangzho, China's Southern airport hub. I had somehow managed to get some Economy extra seats, which meant more legspace. Yup, in fact so much that I had to sit on the tip of the seat to reach my food and drinks on the table in front of me. Who designed this? haha. But I still wonder how I ended up with a ticket here, when most of the plane was empty. I probably paid extra for this, thanks Expedia
The final stop is Siem Reap, Cambodia. Maybe Siem Reap does not sound familiar at all, but what about Angkor Wat then? Not that either, but you might have seen pictures of it in one or another context?

Angkor is the remains of a kingdom as old as the Danish Vikings, but while the Vikings were busy drinking mjöd and perfecting the brew, the Khmer people were building impressive temples and other buildings a thousand years ago.
The girls were two days ahead of me and had already seen quite a lot of the temples. However they had saved the best for last as they put it. Ended up getting a pretty good hotel, normally rated at $90 per night to half price, $45. It was a really good hotel, pool, gym, breakfast buffer and very clean and people treated me like a king there - and why shouldn't they, right? Nah, it was a little too much, I was served fresh pressed orange juice from a waiter kneeling down in front of me. I asked if they were kidding me, and asked the guy to get up.

When I checked in they read my passport and said Danny, all three guys said Danny. Then the guy at the checkin counter said, "Danny is a popular name here in Cambodia - for women!" Ok, the guys had humor, haha. The bellboy showed me to my room, and as soon as the elevator closed, he asked if I wanted some girl company tonight. He looked very disappointing when I said no thanks, but a few seconds later his face lit up and he laughed and said, "Ahh, you want two girls", haha

Our transport around Siem Reap was a tuk-tuk driver, called Vanny. There are thousands of tuk-tuk drivers in and around Siem Reap, and they are all really eager to work. Walking down the street every 7 seconds a guys comes up and asked if we need a tuk-tuk or a motomoped. Restaurant and bars owners are trying to kidnap people from the street into their place which has happy hour all day long.
The currency used here in Cambodia is called Riel, but most people use US dollars. At least it is easy for us to tell if something is cheap or expensive. The price in the end does not matter so much, everything is up for negotiation. In the beginning it is quite funny, but gets a little tiring in the end as everyone is trying to squeeze more dollars out of you. But the smallest bill is a $1 bill, which makes things quite expensive, but instead of giving money back, they sell two or three for $1. In most cases people thank no to having 3 water bottles to carry around, and so they end up making some extra money, clever

Food in Cambodia I thought was going to be a mixture of Vietnamese and Thai kitchen, getting a little spicier on the way. But I was in for a surprise, it didn't really taste anything, I guess the French colonization of Cambodia had ruined that. But at least they could then make some proper tropical cocktails, right? Yes, if they were not supposed to be served with alcohol. Most drinks are super light, if they even had any alcohol in them, which I at times doubted.
The food was not bad at all, neither the drinks made of freshly squeezed fruit juice, just not what I had been expecting. In fact I found some dishes that were really good, and the drinks probably were better with only a bit of alcohol in them as the temperature was well above 30 degrees during the day, hitting 40 at noon. It's all good

Most people visiting Siem Reap are there to see the Angkor temples. A 3 day pass to the Angkor costs $40, which is kind of expensive when looking at the average salary of an average Cambodian, which is between $1-$2 per day. It doesn't look like anyone pays income tax for the stuff we saw being sold here and there, so the big temples entrance fee must contribute a lot to the economy of the entire country.

The government has removed all beggars from the tourist area, which means they have to sell post cards or other stuff to make some money. Some of the kids are only 5-6 years old, but speak a few sentences in multiple languages. We met a little girl and boy when we were sitting having a few beers, they were so charming and funny.
Two weeks earlier the entire Siem Reap had been flooded, around half a meter in the city. Angkor was flooded too, broken roads are there to remind people was just happened. A lot of places the government is now installing sewers and overflow channels. Should have been done earlier, could probably have prevented most of the flood damages.

The Angkor temples is just something that has to be seen, it is so difficult to take pictures of to really justiy the incredible buildings. The amount of stone decorations and carvings is just simply amazing. Thinking that most of the temples were destroyed by wars, "we may lose the war, but were not gonna let you have the Angkor temples", it is sad. They are truly remarkable building.

There are quite many temples, the two most famous ones must be the main temple Angkor Wat and the tree overgrown Ta Phrom, seen in the Tomb Raider movie featuring Angelina Jolie.
Angkor Wat is huge and if we can trust the National Geographic Channel, the entire structure is floating upon a swamp. Almost unbelievable, but check it yourself, don't trust me, I wouldn't.
I wouldn't say I am religious at all, I more admire the temples for what it is: super impressive structures. So detailed it is hard to believe and all over the place, not only a small plate on the big front door. Even more unbelievable when standing in front of it seeing thousands of rock carvings and sculptures, which such detail it is hard to grasp.


One day we took the tuk-tuk out to a waterfall that had been off limit to normal people, only accessible to the royal family back then. They had done rock carvings in the riverbed that meant to increase fertility, making the water very potent. The ride there was long and we had to get air and gas on the way so stopped at a very sophisticated gas-station close to nowhere. Interesting fuel canisters they are using, haha


The hike up to the water fall was not long, took around an hour, but was beautiful, through the Cambodian jungle. It wasn't until I remembered that this country is full of unexploded bombs from the war, that I got seconds thoughts. Well, I was not the first one to walk these steps and this was not exactly a secret path anymore, so I guess I should be safe? The water fall was loud, but the disappointment was to be seen in our faces when we reached the fall, of 3-4 meters...
Every afternoon it seems like the entire atmosphere has been squeezed too long and suddenly the entire thing just bursts. The blue sky with a few clouds suddenly turns black and the rain starts too pour heavily. The entire thing takes only 5-10 minutes, but the streets are flooding for a few minutes before the sun takes over again, the temperature a few degrees lower and the smell of new rain. Kind of nice natural emergency brake.

The last night of the Siem Reap, we went to a concert with a Swiss guy playing a cello, calling themselves Beatocello. I will admit I am not a big cello fan, but there was a story behind this guy. Beat Richner is a Swiss pediatrician in Red Cross working in Cambodia in 1975 when the Khmer Rouge regime tore apart the entire country. Out of 950 doctors, there were only around 50 who survived the war. After the war and when the country had settled somewhat, he returned to Cambodia. Dengue fever, Malaria, tuberculosis, typhoid, burns, personal mine injuries from were issues children would almost certainly die from in Cambodia. He was a man on a mission: he opened a hospital where he would treat children for free of charge.

The children he is admitting to the hospital this day today are still coming with the same symptoms, but now most children survive. Today his non-profit organization operates 5 hospitals with almost 2900 employed people, taking care of around 80% of Cambodia's children. They are paid with competitive salaries to prevent corruption which is one of the most severe problems in Cambodia on all levels. All this is done with out too much help from the Cambodia government itself, but through donations from private people and foreign organizations. There is a problem however to get donations from all countries since he does not charge his patients, which most countries can not support, weird as it seems. Interesting man to say the least and very noble of him to dedicate most of his life to this, still working every day in 2 different cities as a doctor.