Friday, January 20, 2012

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Headed for the volcanos in the middle of the North Island, had found a hostel in Tungari and came there just a few minutes before 18. The place looked like a real hippie hostel, and was run by a funny fellow called Ian. I quickly found out that this was way more than just a hostel to stay at, this was a real backpackers hostel with a cool owner really engaged in his guests and their travel plans.
I had hoped to find some stores open so that I could buy myself a windproof jacket as my fleece was not going to be enough and I only had a poncho rain cover. Unfortunately the stores were all closed and he told me not to worry, he would figure something out. What I should do was to go and get some meat for the BBQ, buy some beers and relax before my walk tomorrow. Hmm, how did he know I would like that? haha
Went to the store, bought a 800 gram steak, some salads and some beers and returned to cook my second meal ever since I started this trip (the first one was in Thailand, 3 course dinner at the cooking class)
It was funny to see some of the other young backpackers cooking pathetic vegetables, corn, squash and maybe a sausage on the BBQ, then there was my big steak taking up most of the space. They were looking envious at it and I had to stay close to it with a huge knife in my hand to defend it, haha
Met two girls who needed a ride the very next morning, but when I told them I was going to be out of the door already at 6, they started asking around for other rides and found some that would leave around 8 from the hostel. Oh well, they were new at this game it seemed, learning by doing.
Next morning when I woke up, Ian knocked the door and gave me a jacket to borrow, even though the weather forecast had promised very nice weather for the hike. You will need it, trust me he said. So I brought it, even though I was considering really hard to leave it, the sun was going to shine!
I drove to the hike ending, dropped my car and got a ride with a shuttle to the beginning of the trail, on the other side of the volcanoes.
I started the hike at exactly at 7 in the morning, there didn't seem to be many people in front of us and within a few minutes I was ahead of our bus full of people. I passed a few people on the way, they had camped up there in some huts over night. A lot of people wearing shorts and a light top, now I was regretting bringing that thick jacket Ian had given me.
The incline in the beginning was quite easy, but after a few kilometers it got steep. After 30 min or so the temperature dropped quite a lot and I was wondering how cold the girls I just passed would have to be.
Looking back at the top of the first ridge, I could see the cloud cover being blown in over the plain I crossed an hour earlier. Good thing I wasn't hiding underneath that.
Reached a sign that pointed towards both South and North. Going North was another 2 hours of hiking up to the top of the small volcano, going South the big volcano was accessible. Was standing there when a couple came back from the big volcano. They had started a couple of hours earlier than me and had camped at the hut. They showed a video from the top of the volcano, they could hardly stand up because of the wind. Where we were it wasn't that bad, but apparently it matters where you are on the mountain. I decided to do neither and continue on the regular crossing trek.
At some point there were two girls standing there waiting in the middle of nowhere. They were also dressed for the beach, which I was wrapped up to keep warm... They admitted they were a little cold though. However they were waiting for some to come and take a picture of them, but I told them I did not have time and walked on - but turned back and took a picture after all.
Over the ridge it went down just a little big, before reaching a huge plain that had to be crossed. I would guess that this would be full of lava in case of an eruption. Totally flat and very big, looked like the surface of the moon or mars.
At the end of the plain there was a new ridge that had to be climbed, and that is when it started to get windy, really windy! I passed a few people who were wearing a light top, they passed me a few minutes later when I was pulling out the jacket Ian had given me. Moments later I passed the people again when they were also adding another layer of clothes. This was really cold and super windy.
The reward for all the effort getting up and over the super cold ridge were a couple of turquoise volcano lakes with volcano steam vents next to them. It looked pretty good I have to admit, but not sure the water would be very good to jump into, haha.
Actually thought it was going to be downhill from there, but surprised when I had to start climbing again. This turned out to be the last climb though, and standing on the top of the last ridge, I got a good view of the mighty volcanoes. It was difficult to get an overview of the situation before getting far enough away.
Looking the other way I could see the big lake again and down there somewhere the car was parked. It looked like it was still far away, and sure it was. Maybe 8km out of the 19km was still left, but it was going to be mostly downhill. Going downhill might be easier on the breath and not so tiring, but for sure it is not easier on the knees and feet.
On the way down I met the two girls from last night, they were on their way up the other way around. Didn't look like they were very prepared for this hike and also quite demotivated. Said they had already been walking for 2 hours and had not even gotten 5km yet. They were a bit surprised when I said they still had an hour to the hut and 2 hours to the lakes with their speed.
They complained a little because people had told them it would be around 5-6 hours, but I had to tell them that they had to walk as fast as I did and be in pretty good shape. On average people probably spent around 8-9 hours in normal walking speed. Well, a kick in the ass and they continued up the mountain
At some point the volcano vegetation suddenly changed and the hike became a walk through the rain forest, really cool change and strange how sudden it was. Just before entering the forest, I could see the car park far far away, but got to a sign that said there was still 5km left.
Was passed by a couple of runners on the last bit, they ran the entire 19.4km in around 3 hours, and when I came out of the forest to the car park I had spent exactly 5 hours and 1 minute. Pretty good time and speed I think, my feet were a little in pain again, really missing my own shoes back in SD. Sorry feet, I promise to treat you better soon, just a few more hikes the next couple of weeks...
The sister volcano South of the two volcanoes from today still  had snow on the top, I am pretty glad I chose not to climb that one instead. They don't look so big from far away, but they always surprise. Very nice trek indeed. Do it if you get the chance, I would do it again (in better shoes though!)

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